Pattern Review

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professor pincushion: welcome to professorpincushion,in this tutorial weã­re going to be doing a retro butterick pattern and you can see a lovelyexample of the dress that we’ll be making here. now the pattern number for this is butterick5880,when you pick up the envelope you’re going to want to make sure you pick up the rightsize grouping and you can see that up here above the barcode. let’s take a quick peekat an example of the dress that we’ll be making. this dress is from a 1951 design thatlovingly captures the elegance of that period; it has a loose fitting bodice with cut outdetails at the neckline, you’ll also notice the front skirt overlay that gathers at the’s all set off with a buckled fabric belt at the waist.

if you aren’t sure of your size you’redefinitely going to want to consult the pattern flap which is at the top of the envelope andyou’re going to check out the sizes because retail sizing and pattern sizing is definitelynot the same. so if we look at this chart you’re going to see the sizes listed at thetop and then underneath is going to be all the measurements that fit that size. so you’regoing to take your measurement of your bust, waist and hip and these are all in incheshere and you’re going to line them up in a column and whatever column best suits youthat is going to be the size that you’re going to be. flipping the pattern envelopeonto the back, the first thing i like to consult is going to be the fabric suggestion. so youcan see the fabric that they suggest; is designed

for light to medium weight woven fabric soeven if you pick a medium weight woven and it’s not technically categorized as one ofthese is probably still going to be fine to use. we’re also going to need a sew-in interfacingand some lining fabric. underneath here we have our notions; we’re going to need a 12inch zipper and one, one inch buckle without the prong. once you have your fabric you can then startfiguring out how much fabric you’re going to need for each item. so the first one dressand belt so this is going to be for your fabric, and this is where your size is definitelygoing to dictate how much fabric you’re going to get. so if for example i’m doing a size14, here’s the 14 everything underneath the

14 in the same column is going to relate tomy size. so this is going to tell me how much fabric i’m going to need. now over here yousee 45 and 60, this is the width of the fabric. if you look at the end of the fabric boltit’s going to tell you how wide it is. so if you have 45 inch width fabric you’re goingto go with this row and if you’re 60 inch you’re going to be going with this row. soif for example iã­m using 60 inches i’m going to go across the row until i get to the 14size column and it says i’m going to need three yards of fabric in order to completethe dress and belt. for our sew-in interfacing it’s all basically the same width, you’regoing to again go across the row until you get to size 14 and you’re going to get oneand an eighth yards of sew-in interfacing

and for the lining it’s the same thing. sothey only give you the 45 inch option, you’re going to cross till you reach your size andthen i can circle that i need two yards of this if i’m doing size 14. let’s pull out the first page of our directions;now in butterick 5880 there’s only one dress contained in this envelope so that make ita little bit easier. you can see the dress here underneath it these are all the patternpieces that are inside this envelope, since it’s only one dress we’re going to haveto cut out all of these pattern pieces so there’s a total of eight pieces and theyactually number the pieces. so here is number four this piece here, when you look at theactual pattern pieces there’s actually going

to be a number four in there. if we look underneathit’s telling you what each of these pattern pieces are for. so if you look at number fourthis is going to be the skirt front. pull out your tissue paper and you can start cuttingout you pattern pieces for the dress, you can see each one has a number and it tellsyou underneath what it is, this is the bodice back so again this correlates to the listthat we were just looking at. now some of the pattern pieces are going tohave a series of lines just like this, each line is going to be for a certain size. soagain you’re going to be consulting what size you are, if for example you’re a size10 you’re going to be cutting out on this line here. so everything past this size isgoing to be cut off the pattern. now if it’s

a line that has no number or size associatedwith it that means it’s going to be for all sizes. you can go ahead and ignore these linesfor petite or fold line because this is if you’re going to make some adjustments,you’re going to want to cut on the main outside line here and you wouldn’t cut here for petite. next you’re going to make sure that you cut out some sort of indication foryour notches. so here i have a single notch and you can either just cut into the notchnot too far we don’t want to cut into our seam allowance. you can cut a little invertedtriangle or you can do like i did where i do a triangle that’s going outside of thepattern, just some sort of indication to yourself so you know there’s a notch here becausethe notches are used in order to match our

pattern pieces together. here i have a doublenotch so i just cut outward and then i just flatten the top so i can distinguish betweena double notch and a single notch. youã­ll notice that there’ll be several numberone pieces and that is because they did a separate one for each size. so to find thesize you’re going to be looking underneath the name and the pattern number, this is forsize 14. so if for example you’re doing size 10 you would not need to cut out this numberone piece instead you’ll be looking for a number one piece where underneath here it’sgoing to say size 10. after you cut out your pattern pieces you can then start laying itout on you fabric so then we can get our fabric pieces to make the dress. so you’ll see thelayout on page one and there’s actually quite

a few layouts, what they are doing is breakingit down to the width of the fabric and the size you’re doing. so you’ll see 45, 45and then we have 60 down here. if you’re using 45 inch width fabric you can ignorethe layouts for the 60 inch. then from the 45 you’re going to find the one that hasyour size listed underneath. so if i’m doing size 14 i can go ahead, ignore this and theni would just focus on this layout for cutting out my fabric. now for reading this the dark shade meanswe’re looking at the right side of the fabric, if it’s white that means you’re lookingat the wrong side of the fabric. so this is just a single layer of fabric laid out withits width and then here at the bottom they

folded it out in order to cut these fabricpieces on the fold. and they also give you that clue here s, s this mean it’s a salvageof the fabric and f means there’s a fold right here. now this one here is salvage,salvage there’s no fold so they just took after they cut out these pieces they justcut off the fabric laid it out single layer, cut it in half in order to fit piece fivehere, so then you can cut out two number fives from this layout right here. now if you look at your pattern pieces it’sactually the opposite, if it’s white that means its right side facing up and if it’spolka dot that means the printed side of your pattern is flip so it’s upside down withthe print of the pattern face down towards

the fabric. now when you pin your pieces oryour pattern pieces to the fabric youã­re going to place the pins parallel to the edgeof the pattern piece. and i like to make sure that i put it pretty close so it’s insidethe seam allowance so we’re not going to get holes in our fabric that’s goingto show once the garment is completed. so just pretty close to the edge, now i alsowant to point out here, we have seven and you’ll see it’s white and then underneatht looks like the same number seven and it’s polka dot. number seven is probably a piecethat needs to be placed on the fold so what you can do so you can pin seven right sidefacing up, you can either start cutting out or which even better is just use a chalk,a fabric chalk and trace around seven. then

youã­re going to take the piece, you’re goingto unpin it and you’re going to flip it so now the print side is facing down right nextto that piece and you can either trace or cut it out and also cut out along your chalkmark for the one you originally did because what they want you to do is you’re only goingto need one number seven fabric piece but it’s going to be double the size of the originalpiece. so it’s just as if you cut it on the fold. for number six you’re going to haveto read it, i’m not i’m pretty sure this one doesn’t have to placed on a fold, theyjust want you to have two number six pieces one right side up, one wrong side down. after the fabric is cut out we still needto cut out our interfacing and our lining

so that’s going to be the next sort of layoutwe’re going to look at and you can see here the only have one layout for the interfacing,you’re just going to layout your interfacing one layer, no folding and you’re going tocut out number one and number eight here. next we have the lining; i’m just going toscoot this down a little bit so we can look at our lining layout. and for, they only do45 inch fabric for the layout, you just need to then find your size. so again if i’m doingin this grouping i would just look at this layout and i could ignore this one and ignorethis one over here. so here we have this layout and they are goingto tell you which pieces you are going to cut out. so we need four, six, seven, youneed another six, three and two of our lining

pieces. again it’s the same sort of thing.there is laying out the fabric right side up down here at the bottom. they fold it youcan see the f for fold and then the selvages and selvages that means it’s the edge ofthe fabric. so you are going to cut out one six facing right the right side of the patternis facing down towards the fabric; this one over here it’s the right side facing up ofthe fabric. again we have another fold here to cut out this the piece number four on afold line and two and three is also cut out on a fold line. for piece number seven uphere it’s the same thing we did for the fabric. so you are going to pin right side up youare going to trace along the outside; then carefully take out your pins, flip it overso it’s butting up right next to where you

just did it and then you are going to outlineand cut it all out in one time. so you have a piece number seven that’s double the sizeof the pattern piece. now i just want to point out up here thisone looks a little confusing but you’ll see f and f so the folding at the top and thefolding at the bottom. so the bottom fold if going to contain number six, seven is goingto be right on that fold and then you also have four on the top fold as well. the last bit of prep work we need to do ismaking sure that we transfer marks from our pattern pieces to our fabrics. so we havedarts, circles, we have triangles, we have stitching line down here i have a small need to transfer the ones that are next

to your size. so right here this triangleyou have a series of triangles. i only need to transfer the one that has the 14 if that’sthe size i’m doing. i can just ignore the other ones. so what i like to do is we aregoing to pretend like this is still all pinned together. i’m going to put my straight penthrough the middle of the mark i need to transfer and i like to make the marks on the wrongside of my fabric. and then i’m just going to use my chalk or my fabric marker and i’mgoing to go ahead and transfer you can see right here which i’ve all ready done. it’s the same thing here with the stitchingline. there is a series of lines but you just have to carefully find your size so here is14 and then i’m just going to follow the

lines up until i see a circle here. 14 and14 and then i’m just going to draw a line in between them. so you end up with a singlemark like this and make sure you do it to both sides because itã­s just folded in are going to do the same thing for any darts you have, any circles and any smalldots. if there is a mark such as a triangle like this and there is no size itã­s justa single triangle that means it’s for all sizes. you’ll also notice on pattern piecenumber five that there’ll be a series of tuck lines, you also need to transfer thoseand put those particular marks. i would make those on the right side. we are going to get started on the directionsbut first we are going to consult the sewing

information box and this is going to tellus what the seam allowance is. so in this case it’s five eighths of an inch unless otherwiseindicated. so if there are telling you to sew a seam and they don’t state anythingspecial you are always going to assume it’s going to be five eighths of an inch. we alsohave this illustration shading key this is going to help us kind of figure out what’sgoing on in the picture directions. so you can see what the right side of the fabricis if its shaded; the wrong side of the fabric or garment is going to be white and then youhave interfacing which is polka dotted and then you have the lining which is white withthese little lines here. so we are going to get started at the beginningof the directions let me just move this down

a little bit and you use here we go. we aregoing to start with step one and i’m going to be reading the steps and then i’m goingto demonstrate for you what you need to do in that step. step one: base front neck interfacing to wrongside of bodice front. stitch darts in bodice front press down. here is the fabric pieceof piece number two and you can see i transferred all my marks this is the pattern piece thatwe were just looking at. so this is the bodice front. you are going to want to make surethat you have the wrong side facing up. you are going to take piece number one which justhappens to be the piece from our sew-in interfacing. and what you are going to do is you are goingto pin it to the wrong side of the neck line

right here at the top go ahead and pin it. and what we are going to do is we are goingto baste it in. you are going to baste it starting here and then you are going to godown the neck line and then across the top here. so this outer curve we are not basting,just the top part where we have the shoulder seams and the neck line. your basting stitchis going to be the largest stitch on your machine and you don’t have to worry aboutdoing a back stitch. we have to sew in our interfacing because itã­s not fusible butit will eventually be sewn into the seam allowance. now you can do it at the five eighths line.i’m actually doing it at the half inch line; so then it’s going to be inside the seamand if i can’t see it or take it out then

i can just leave it. the second part of step one is sewing ourdarts. so this is what a dart looks like. it’s wider at the end and then it comes toa point. so in order to create it all you are going to be doing again you are doingthis on the wrong side of the fabric. iã­m going to pinch the end of the dart betweenmy fingers and iã­m just basically folding the whole thing in half. so just fold it inhalf something like this. i’m going to put a pin at the very end. and then as i i’mjust folding this area in half. my little trick that i do is, i stick a pin in one sidewhere i can see my line my dart line; stick it straight through. iã­m going to flip itover to the other side if the pin is coming

out right where my line is then its perfect. i can just put it in. and i’m putting inmy pins so they are going perpendicular to the folded edge of the dart and i’m justto continue until i get to the end. you are going to do it for all your darts for thefront bodice. so we have one, we have two and then we have two more on the other sideas well. so again i stick my pin through one side in the line; i flip it over and if it’sa little off can make a little, little adjustments until it’s going through. so it’s prettygood put in the pin in perpendicular to the edge so it’s going to look something likethis. and what you are going to do is you are going to sew directly on your dart line,stitch it on and then stitch right off here.

so you are only stitching through this onearea you are not stitching any of this part here until you get to creating this dart.once you finish creating your dart you are going to take all of your darts and you aregoing to press them down so they are going towards the bottom of the bodice away fromthe neckline. but weã­ll just get a little bit closer so we can show you how i sew thisdart. when stitching your dart you are going tostart at the widest point of the dart so here at the side seam. you are going to do a regularwidth stitch, don’t forget to back stitch and then you are going to just follow alongyour line. and when you get to the end of the dart you are actually just going to runyour stitches right off the fabric. you are

not going to do a back stitch because we areactually just going to hand tie a knot and that will keep the dart from getting a littlebubble right at that point. so i’m just getting to the end here. this is going to be my lastpin. so i’m just going to run it right off, pull this out; keep it pretty long tail. becausein here i’m going to take my thread ends, i’m going to form a loop and i’m going tobring the end right through that loop and pull it and its going to create a knot. youare just going to do it slowly so you can kind of make sure that your knot gets prettyclose to the fabric. and then you are going to move on and do the rest of your darts. step two: stitch darts to bodice back presstowards center. so now you are going to be

taking piece three and again this was cuton the fold so when you unfold it’s twice the size of the pattern and make sure thatyou’ve transferred all your marks. so now we are just going to be working on the dartswhich is down here at the bottom. you can see one of them here you are just going todo the same sort of thing. you are going to fold it in half, put in your pins perpendicularand then stitch on one side of your line stitching off here and then tying a hand knot. and youcan see i’ve already completed one over here and then once you finish you are going topress both your darts towards the center. so this one is pressed in this direction andthis one is going to be pressed in this direction. step three: pin bodice front and bodice backtogether at sides. stitch leaving left side

open below large circle. here is our piecenumber three right side is facing up you are then going to take the front bodice whichis piece number two and you’re going to lay it on top of piece number three at the backbodice, so that it goes right side to right side. what you’re going to be matching upis the side seam so it’s this area here, and then this area here. so you are goingto make sure that this area matches your double notches match on both sides and this top cornerhere matches and the bottom matches. you’re going to pin these two areas, nothing elsejust these two areas and on this side on the right hand side you can go ahead and stitchyour five eighths seam allowance. on this side here you’ll notice you havea large circle between your two darts which

was on your pattern piece, so from this corneryou’re just going to stitch until you get to the large circle. that’s because everythingbelow the large circle needs to remain open because this is where we’re going to be placingthe zipper. don’t forget you’re going to do your seam at the five eighths seam allowance,don’t forget to back stitch on both the beginning and the end of your stitch and you’re doinga regular width stitch. when you finish with your seam go ahead and press your seam allowance open. step four; stitch dots and bodice front liningpress down. so from your number two pattern you also should have cut one out of your liningpiece and transferred all your marks. so you’re going to have a wrong side facing up becausenow just like we did with the other piece

you’re going to create your darts, so youcan see i have one dart here and same thing as we already did you’re going to fold eachdart in half and then you’re going to stitch along the line. so you can see i’ve alreadycreated three of my darts. once the darts are completed you’re going to press themdown towards the waist. step five: stitch darts and bodice back liningpress toward center, so piece number three the bodice back is another one that you shouldhave cut one out of your lining, again wrong side facing up you’re going to create thetwo darts at the bottom you should be an expert at darts by now. once the darts are completedyou’re going to press them towards the center, you can see one is already done and is pressedin this direction.

step six: pin bodice front line pin bodiceback line together at sides stitch leaving left side open below large circle or basicallyjust copying what we did with our main fabric. so with our lining this is by back piece numberthree i have it again right side facing up, i’m going to bring in the lining piece numbertwo which is the front bodice and the lining. you’re going to place them so it’s goingto be right side to right side again you’re going to match up the side seam area makingsure the double notches match this top corner and the bottom corner matches. and you’regoing to pin on both this side and this side as well. now the difference is we’re going to flipso on this side youã­re going to stitch from

here to the large circle and everything belowthe large circle you’re leaving open, on this side you’re doing the whole from here to here youã­re doing the five eighths, regular width stitch, back stitchat the sides. on this side you’re starting here same five eight regular width stitch,you’re going to do your back stitch here and then you’re going to do backstitch here andeverything below the circle is going to stay open . step seven; turn in seam allowance on shoulderedges of bodice lining press, turn in seam allowance on lower edge of bodice lining’s my bodice and again i stitch the back to the front so i stitch here on the sideand i’m partially on this side as well. so

all they want you to do is on the bottom partof your bodice so both for the front and for the back you’re going to grab a sewing gaugeand some straight pins and what you’re going to do is as still wrong side facing out. you’regoing to measure up the seam allowance which is five eighths of an inch that’s why i’musing my sewing gauge and you’re going to pin it up all the way round the whole bottomedge of the bodice and once it’s all pinned up you can go ahead and press it. you’re also going to do the same thing forthe shoulder seams. so i will take this one and remember these aren’t stitched togetherthey’re separate. so we’ll take the front one, i’ll turn it over five eighths of an inch.i’ll press it and then i’ll do the same

thing with the back. youã­re always pressingto the wrong side, so press this five eighths of an inch and i’ll turn it and then i’llpress it and then you’re going to do the same thing on the shoulders of this side soshoulder, shoulder and then bottom edge. step eight: with right size together pin bodicelining to bodice matching seams. stitch neck edge along seam lines and stitching linespivot in at small circles. clip to small circles trim next seam stitch arm whole edges trimunder stitch lining as far as possible. so there’s a lot going on with the steps sowe’re going to take it one step at a time. first you’re going to take your bodice pieceand this is the one with the fabric and you’re going to flip it so it’s right side out.then you’re going to take the same piece

in your lining. now this is going to be wrongside out because what i’m going to do is, i’m going to slip the fabric inside the liningsso everything is going to match up. and once i put this inside of this one then it’s goingto be right side together. for both the back neck line and the frontneck line you’re going to bring up the lining so that the raw edge of the lining meets theraw edge of your neck line of the fabric. so if you have notches like the front hasthe single notches you’re going to make sure that those match. so you’re going to pinall these in a place. you can see i’ve already done the back i’m going to pin all alongthe neck line. now we, remember for the lining we press to the wrong side for five eighthsof an inch. you’re going to keep that folded

over. so the top of this lining is not goingmeet at the shoulder seam of our main fabric of the bodice. just keep that folded overand i’m going to do the same thing over here and then also at the back neck lines. so i’mgoing to pin all along here. then you’re going to take it to your machineand starting at the fold of the lining you’re going to stitch a five eighths inch seam remember we have these little marks from our pattern pieces and this is going to createthat cut out at the top of the neck line of the dress. so what you’re going to do isyou’re start to stitch the five eighths inch seam allowance. once you get to the firstsmall circle you’re going to pivot it stitch along your stitching line, pivot again andpivot again continue with five eight seam

allowance, come here pivot go right alongon the stitching line, pivot again come up and then finish stitching at the five eighthsinch don’t forget the back stitch, you are just doing the regular width stitch. now thisis only for the front. you’re not stitching the front to the backjust lining to main fabric, lining to main fabric. so i would start the same thing overhere the top of the lining where itã­s folded and then for the back is easier because youcan just do the five eight seam allowance all the way down and you donã­t have to worryabout this parts. remember you’re only stitching the frontand back neck line only. we’re not doing the shoulder seams or any other part rightnow. so i’m starting with front because i’m

going to show you how we do that one, trianglestitching area. so i’m just getting to that point now so there’s going to be right’s going to be the edge you can see i stopped right there and all iã­m going to do is ileave my needle down in the fabric and i lift my foot. so nothing really gets shifted. ipivot my fabric and then i can go ahead put my foot down and i could just follow my lineuntil i get to the end to the point of the triangle. so that looks about maybe one more,right there. so again needle goes into the fabric foot lifts and then i’m going to pivotmy fabric again. follow my stitch line until i get to this edge and then i’m going topivot it again and continue on. after i’ve finished stitching my seams ilike to clip these little notches into the

seam allowance for any curved areas whichis normally the neck line. so you can see i’ve done them here and i’m careful notto actually cut into my stitches, then you’re going to go ahead and trim your seam allowanceso you’re only leaving about quarter of an inch to about an eighth left. and you can seei’ve already done the back here. for the cut out you’re going to clip down to thepoint again being careful not to actually cut into your stitches. the next part is we’re going to do the sameexact thing we just did but we’re going to do it for the armhole area. so this areahere, you can see here is my neckline, my shoulder seam is going to start at this you’re going to be doing the same sort

of thing. you are taking the front part, you’retaking the lining which is folded over and you’re starting at the five eighths not completely at the top a little a little ways down. and you’re going to pin, pin,pin, pin, all the way to the back. so going from front to back and then it’s the samething. this is still folded over, so you’re not going of the back, and you’re going todo for both sides. you are going to go ahead stitch your fiveeighth seam allowances, starting here at the top of the fold line of the lining and thenyou’re going to stitch all the way through one single stitch until you get back up tohere. and then you’re going to go ahead and trim your seam allowances, and you can seei’ve already done it over on this side. so

the shoulder seams are still not attached,all you’re doing is just attaching the lining to your fabric. the last step of eight isto do the under stitching for all the areas we just stitched, so all the seams for theback neckline the front neck line and the two armholes we’re going to do same thing,which is the under stitch. i’m pulling the lining away from my fabric.looking at the right side of the lining and the right side of the fabric here. you’regoing to make sure that your seam allowance; here is my seam allowance right here staysclosed and it’s going to be on the side of the lining. so you’re going to pull it overso you get kind of see my seam allowance right here and i can feel it with my finger thaton the side of the lining, that’s what you

want. you’re going to start and stitch rightalongside that seam line. sew as close as you can get to the seam line without going overinto the fabric side. you’re definitely sewing on the side on the lining you’re doing aregular width stitch don’t forget the back stitch, and this is what is going to keepa lining on the inside of the dress. so it’s going to look like that and it’s not goingto keep popping over to the right side. again you’re going to do for all four areas, thenback neckline, the front neckline and the two arm holes. the most important thing when you’re stitchingunder stitching is that you make sure that there is nothing underneath your fabric besidethe lining and the seam allowance that you’re

currently working on. we need to make surethat we’re not accidentally stitching two pieces of the bodice together. also, some areas maybe easier than others. when it comes to the cut outs in the front neckline, that may bechallenging in order to get into this cutouts. so you just go as far as you can go, and thenonce it gets too hard go ahead back stitch cut it off and then move on to another areathat you can under stitch. step nine: turn bodice press, so you’re goingto finish turning your bodice so that all the seams that we just created are now withinthe seam. so we’re not looking at any raw edges i the seams that we just created, andso your bodice is still inside out but you’re looking at the right side of the lining, whatwere going to do next is that we’re going

to press all the seams that you just stitchedwith under stitch so front neckline, back neckline and the arm holes area. step 10: stitch bodices from to bodice backshoulders, slip stitch press edges of lining together over seam. now we’re going to beattaching the front to the back of the bodice at the shoulder seams. so this is this areaup here, here is our neckline. all you’re going to be doing is and again your goingright side to right side. you’re going to be matching the shoulder seam of the fabriconly, we’re going to kind of pull this lining out of the way because we don’t want to stitchthis just fabric to fabric. so you’re going to want to make sure that you match up theedge here, this edge here and then your single

notch in the middle. you’re going to stitcha five eighths inch seam allowance again of the fabric only not of the lining and you’regoing to press it open. and i’ve actually already done that, over here, so here is myseam. you going to press it open best you can andthen you’re going to tuck it each side so it goes underneath the lining like this. andthen we’re going to get a little closer so i can show you this next part. what you’regoing to is slip stitch, the two sides of the lining together, so then all the seamallowance is going to be enclosed and you going to have a nice finish look which isthe lining at the shoulder. the slip stitch is done by hand so i’m going to go aheadand have my needle on thread and you should

use a matching thread so it doesn’t reallyshow. i’m just using a contrasting one, so it’s little bit easier to see. you’ll seehere that on the left side and i’m just going through the lining section only, all i’mgoing to be doing a zigzagging between the sides. so here i have it in the left side so i’mgoing to go ahead and grab a little bit of fabric in the right side and i try to stayright along the fold line. then pull it, so the sides come together, and now that i’mon the right side i’m going to grab a little bit of the left side. and then pull it togetherand then i go back to the right. so i just go right left, right left all the way tilli’m done with the whole shoulder.

step 11: stitch darts and skirt front presstoward center. so with step 11 we’re moving on from the bodice and working on the skirtnow. so you’re going to get piece number four and this was placed in a fold so you’llget one that’s double the size. at the top of four you have two darts, you’re goingto create the darts and then you’re going to press them toward the center. step 12: pin overlay sections together. stitchouter curved edge and upper edge pivoting across seam allowance at small circle on waist.clip diagonally to small circle trim seam. we’re going to be working with the overlaypieces, and this is pattern piece number five you should have cut out two and remember itold you that you needed to have this tuck

lines drawn on the right side. now that istrue but the one mark that you also need to transfer on the wrong side of your fabric, isgoing to be one of your circles up here at the top which is part of the tuck lines. thereis two of them here towards the top, and you actually going to do just the one circle that’scloses to this curved edge over here. so just this guy you’re going to transferto the wrong side. you’re going to take it to overlay pieces and you’re going to pinthem so the right side together and then you’re going to go ahead and stitch them in certainparts. what you’re going to do is where you mark your circle; you’re going to start atthe raw edge right above it, you’re going to stitch down till you get to the’re going to pivot turn this way five

eighth seam allowance regular width stitchdon’t forget the back stitch. and then you’re going to come along the curved area untilyou get to this end right here. so you’re going to stop at this point do a back stitch,so again it’s just this area to the circle and then from the circle you’re going togo up to the raw edge. this area, this area before the circle isgoing to remain free and you’re also going to trim your seam allowance just like we’vedone before with our neckline, you’re going to trim it for the curved areas i would todo the little inverted notches because that always helps for the curve areas to then layflatter, and up here where you went down from the raw edge and across, you’re going toclip a diagonal notch to the circle and you’re

going to be very careful not to cut into anyof your stitches. here is a closer look at the top of the overlays so i stitched downpivoted out my circle and then stitched across, once i’m done i’m going to trim my seamand then you can see a notch is going in diagonally towards my dot and being careful not to cutinto my stitches. step 13: turn overlay press baste raw edgesin a long tuck lines. so you’re going to take your overlay piece and you’re goingto turn it right side out. so you have this nice finished edge along the curve and you’regoing to press it. the areas that were not stitched, this area along the side here andalong the top you’re going to go ahead and pin the two pieces together at the raw edgebecause we’re going to sew a basting stitch

which is going to be the longest stitch onyour machine no back stitching starting here coming up going across here. they also wantyou to do it along the tuck lines. so this is to keep the top and bottom layer togetherso we’ll eventually be able to do the tucks. so you can either do the outside perimeteror like me i’m just going to do every single line i have of my tuck lines. step 14: to make tacks in overlay on insidebring lines of small circles together stitch. so you’re going to take your overlay andyou’re going to, we’re actually going to look at the inside part of the overlay, sowhat does that mean? it means that the curved finished side is going to be to your left,the side that has the basting is going to

be on the right hand side. so we’re goingto consider this the inside of the overlay. now if we look at my basting stitches here,these are the tuck lines and i just stitched over my track marks to create them and you’llsee that they’re made up of boxes. so we’re going to take one at a time because we’regoing to start at the top and then we’ll move our way down. we’re just going to focusa little bit closer to this area so you can see exactly what i’m doing. if you look at your pattern piece you’llnotice that at the corner of each box there’ll be a dart. so i have one here, here and hereand the same thing here. so what they want you to do is bring those dots together soto create a tuck, what you’re going to do

is and i’m going to come up put my fingersunderneath. i’m going to take this square and i’m going to fold it in half. i’m tryingto match up this line with this line and it’s just like when we did the darts. so you goingto fold it in half, i’m going to grab a straight pin i’m going to put it right through thatcorner check the other side and make adjustments if i need to make adjustments until it’slined up and then i’m going to stick in my pin perpendicular to the fold and i’m goingto do the same thing over in this corner. sticking my pin need to make a few adjustmentsover here and we’ll say that’s good. everything up here on this raw edge, just tack it underneathso it’s lined flat underneath the overlay piece right here. you’re then going to goto your machine and you’re going to stitch

right along this line here. so from this dotto this dot over here you’re just going to do a regular width stitch, don’t forget theback stitch. once this is stitched, you’re going to move on to the next box, so i’mgoing to do the same thing. i’m just pinching right in the middle because i want to matchup this line with this line now. i’m going to take this set above it andi’m going lay it underneath so now this fold is on top and everything on top and everythingunderneath it is lying out of the way in flat. and i’m going to stick in a pin, stick ina pin make sure that i’m matching up the corners and i’m going to stitch right alongthere. now this stitch the bobbin thread it should actually follow this line right that’s what’s going to create the stitch

in which it’s going to hold in your then once this one is done then i’m going to move into this one i’m going to do thesame thing, pinch it in the middle. so the tuck is coming up towards me put in the pinstake all this up here, lay it underneath so it’s flat and then stitch across here. andi’m just going to go one after the other, starting at the top working my way down. step 15: press tucks down as shown based acrossfolds. so here are all my tacks all they want you to do is you’re going to take your tacksand you’re going to fold them, so all the fold lines are going down towards the bottomon the overlay. you’re going to press this and then you can go ahead and do a bastingstitch right across the edge of the fold lines

right and for the basting stitch again that’sthe largest stitch in your machine no back stitch. step 16: with right sides up pin overlayto skirt front machining centers, baste upper and side edges. here’s my overlay. so nowwe’re looking at the front side of the overlay because before the last two steps we’re lookingat the back side so now it’s the front side we’re going to have piece number four. sothis is the skirt front you’re going to have it right side facing up, you can see my dartsup here that’s the bottom of the skirt it’s right side facing up. i’m going to take myoverlay lay it on top of it. you’re going to pin you can see i stared pining right hereright along the side. you’ll notice that

the overlay doesn’t go all the way to thebottom of the skirt it starts about right here. so i’m going to pin all the way uphere and then i’m also going to pin along the top here. you’re going to make sure that the doublenotch right over here matches at the side seam and then we have two single notches uphere at the top so those should also match in the overlay and in the skirt front. you’reonly going to pin to this edge of the overlay. so all this extra floppy stuff you’re justgoing to move it out of the way. this is not going to make it all the way to the otherside seam. it’s just going to get i’d probably say a couple of inches away from that. thenyou’re going to baste so you can start here

or you could start at the bottom but you’regoing to baste across the top and then down the side. step 17: pin skirt side back sections to skirtback stitch. we’re going to be working with piece number seven piece number six. so outof six you should have cut out two this is the side back and out of seven you had oneside that shouldnã­t be place in the fold. so end up with one piece number seven that’stwice the size of the pattern piece. now what you’re going to be doing is you’re goingto be stitching six to seven then and then this edge is seven to six. so it goes six,seven, six. so i have both my pieces right side facing, move my pattern pieces here’s six right side facing up, seven’s

right side facing up. you’ll see that theyhave the single notch here i’m going to flip it. so the raw edges are going to line upmy single notch is going to line up making sure the top and the bottom also match. you’regoing to go ahead and pin from the top to the bottom to your five eighths seam allowanceand press your seam open. and then on this side, let me shift this down a little bit, i’mgoing to take my other six and do the same thing on this other side number seven. makesure right sides are together. the single notch matches, the ends match and go ahead,stitch that five eighths seam allowance, and press your seam open on this one as well. step 18: pin front and back together at sides.stitch leaving left side open above large

circle being careful not to catch we’re going to be attaching the skirt back to the skirt front. sewing at the sideseams, so this is our skirt front again we have this overlay here and i have it rightside facing up and i’m going to take my skirt back. i’m going lay on top of here rightsides together and i’m going stitch along the side seam here and the side seam up here.but i want to make sure that i don’t get this caught in the side seam. so i’m goingto do is i’m going to carefully fold it back and you can probably just use a few pins justto pin it to the skirt front. so it kind of stays out of the way. so here you can clearlysee the side seam of the skirt front and then i have the other one on that side which idon’t have to worry about. here’s my skirt

back this is what we’ve just completed. goingto lay on top right side together and i’m going to match up not only the double notcheson each side. i have one here and then one over on that side but also the top of theskirt portion and the bottom of the skirt portion. and you’re going to pin both sidesthis side and this side. now if you’re looking at it and you have the skirt back on top whichi do. if the skirt was actually flipped this way instead of being side ways on the righthand side you’ll notice you have a large circle. everything above the circle you’renot going to stitch you’re going to leave that open because this is where a zippersgoing to be once it’s attached to the bodice. so you’re going to start here and you’regoing stitch down to the end of the skirt

regular width stitch five eighths seam allowancedon’t forget to back stitch. on the other side though you’re going to do the wholething from the top to the very bottom and then you’re going to press your seams open. step 19: open up bodice lining pin skirt tobodice matching centers baste. this is the top portion of my skirt, it’s still wrongside out, so now i’m going to grab my bodice and i’m going to put it inside the top ofmy skirt so that the bottom of the bodice raw edge meets the top of the skirt. my bodiceis right side out, so here is my bodice and i’m going to make sure that when i stickit in here that it’s going in the right direction. so this is the back of my bodice, this isthe back of my skirt and then the front of

my skirt is going to be in the same positionas the front of my bodice. so i’m just going to slip it in through the top of the skirtand you’ll notice that you have all these notches in the skirt which should also matchthe notches in your bodice so the raw edges are going to match. now you are only going to be pinning the rawedge or the fabric of the bodice. this lining you are just going to tuck it in there andkeep out of the way because we are not stitching the lining just the fabric of the skirt withthe fabric of the bodice. grab my pins here, so double notch on the back. oops i need toshift that down a little bit, here it is okay double notch because there is two of themso i need to make sure they both line up and

then i have this other one over here. go aheadand pin that and i’m just basically pinning all the way around because we are going tobaste this two pieces together. so then the bodice is then going to be attached to theskirt and that’s what is going to create our dress. we have this opening edge rememberin the skirt and also in the bodice so those should match as well. so you are just going to go from one opening all the way around the whole top and stopping at the other we are just basting it because it’s just a temporary stitch to hold it so you don’thave to do any back stitching we are going to do a permanent stitch later. so i’m justgoing to go ahead and finish pinning this and then i’m going to baste it.

step 20: stitch the darts and skirt frontlining press towards center so out of piece four you should also have also cut one ofthe four on the fold of the lining which i have under here and again we have darts at the top. soyou have two, you are going to create the dart and for each of them this one and thisone you are going to press them towards the center. step 21: pin skirt side back lining sectionsto skirt back lining stitch. we are basically recreating our skirt back and our lining piecesso out of your lining you are going to cut one out of seven and then you are then you’llhave two of number six pieces so this is the skirt side, skirt back, skirt side back again.what you are going to do is i have them all

right side facing up just like we did before,you are going to match each side of the seven piece that’s the one in the middle with oneof the sixes. you are going to match the top, the bottom down here and the single notch.go ahead and pin the full side and stitch your five eighths seam allowance and press yourseams open. then i’m going to do the same thing i’m going to take this i’m going tolay it on this side. i’m also going to stitch the five eighths seam allowance and press theseam open. step 22: pin front and back lining togetherat sides stitch leaving left side open above large circle. here is my front skirt liningright side facing up. i’m going to go ahead and grab the back lay it on there so i haveright side to right side and you are going

to pin the side seams together. so pin thisside i’m going to pin this side up here and you are going to stitch your five eighths seamallowance from top to bottom. on the left hand side though we are going to have thislarge circle so again everything above this circle we are not going to sew, everythingbelow the circle we are going to go ahead stitch your five eighths seam allowance fromhere down to the bottom of the skirt because this is where we are going to be placing ourzipper in the skirt portion. step 23: with wrong sides together pin liningto skirt baste to within three inches from side opening edges, stitch along now we are going to be taking our skirt lining and we are going to be attaching itto our dress. so this is the bodice, we are

still keeping our bodice lining out of theway so we have the bodice we have the skirt and here is our seam allowance where we bastedthe two together. you are going to pull up your lining and it’s going to go wrong sideto wrong side. so my dress is still inside out and we are looking at the right side ofthe skirt lining right now because we want wrong side to wrong side and you are goingto be pinning the raw edge of the top of the skirt lining with this raw edge of the it’s actually the seam allowance between the skirt and the bodice here. and i’m startingat the opening we have here so you would definitely want to make sure that not only do all ofyour seams match for the skirt lining and the skirt but also the opening is going tomatch you have the back of the skirt lining

with the back of the skirt so everything isgoing to line up and i’m just going to start pinning here. if it makes it easier because we are actuallygoing to be stitching the lining to the seam allowance. you can go ahead and take yourbodice and tuck it back into the skirt because we want to make sure we don’t actually stitchon the bodice, you are just stitching the seam allowance. after this is pinned you aregoing to baste the lining to the seam allowance all the way round until you end back here.but from the opening edge on each side so this side and this side over here. you arenot going to stitch three inches from the edge so with that i’m going to grab my sewinggauge which i already have marked it three

inches. and so right here may be i’ll makean x with my pins. so that way i know that once i get to that i’m going to stop. so i’m going to start here go all the wayaround and then three inches before i get to this edge i’m going to make sure thati stop. now what i want you to do first, is you are going to baste the pieces togetherso the lining to the seam allowance and the after you baste it in you can go ahead anddo a regular stitch right on top of your basting stitch at that five eighths seam allowance.again you are only stitching the lining to the seam allowance so if it’s easier takeall this bodice and this lining and tuck it back into the skirt that way you are not takingany chances.

step 24: unpin skirt lining at opening edges,stitch reminder of waist seam keeping skirt lining free. press seam toward bodice. sohere again is the top of my skirt. i just have my bodice tucked into my skirt so it’sout of the way. so remember in the last step three inches from the edge we did not sewthe lining down. you can see itã­s free here and it’s free on this side of the openingas well. all they want you to do is on each side you are going to pull back the liningand then at the seam line of the waist here. you are just going to go ahead and do a regularwidth stitch and stitch from where your lining is to the edge at the five eighths seam are going to do for this side and this side as well. and you are doing it becauseat this point this area right here is only

basted so what they just want you to do afinal stitch just to make sure everything is going to be secured. once you are doneyou can go ahead take your bodice you can pull it out of the skirt and then you aregoing to press your seam allowance up towards the bodice. step 25: baste opening edges together alongseam line between large circles as shown, press. i just turn my dress side ways so thisis the bottom with the skirt and this is the bodice and i’m just pulling my lining tothe bodice out of the way. i’m also going to pull my skirt lining out of the way becausewhat we are going to be doing is we are going to be taking this opening remember we hadthis opening here. now we are finally going

to start putting in our zipper. what you aregoing to do is you are going pin the raw edges of the opening together. so front to backand you are going to baste at the seam allowance from the top of the opening down to the bottomof the opening and then you are going to press that seam allowance open. step 26 is in three parts so we are just goingto take one part at a time. the first part is width stitch across upper end of here at the top past the zipper tab it’s all open and all we are going to do is whipstitch across the two inside parts here so they come a little closer together. so i’mjust using some needle and thread. i’m going to bring up my needle from behind, and thenall i’m going to do is come over to the other

side, bring my needle back up to the originalside that i was on. don’t pull it to fast or it might knot up there, i’m just goingto pull it so they come closer together. and then i’m going to do the same thing. so i’mgoing on the left side, bringing it so i’m coming back over on the right side, pull ittogether. and it’s probably better to use a matching thread, i’m just using a contrastingand so it’s a little easier to see. oops and make sure you don’t get it caught inthe tab there. and then once i get to the top i can go ahead and tie a knot. next step, place zipper face down on seamallowances, placing the zipper stop at lower large circle and centering zipper teeth onbasted seam. turn, pull tab up, base and center

of zipper tape, basting across upper and lowerends. so this is our seam allowance that we just basted in the side seam where we hadthat opening, and i went ahead and marked in my seam allowance where i had the largecircle, so this is the top of where i started to baste, right here, so that’s where myzipper tab is going to go over the top of the zipper, and then down here, i have anotherone. so that’s where the zipper stop is going to be or the bottom of the zipper. so here’s my zipper right side facing up,i’m going to turn it, so now the right side of the zipper is going to go right in themiddle of that seam allowance. this tab, you can go ahead and put the tab so it’s goingup towards the top of the zipper tape and

that is going to be, or the top of the zipperis going to be right at my mark right here. so i’m just going to put my hand on the insidebecause it’s just a little bit easier to work with. grab some straight pins and startpinning it into place. you’re going to make sure that the teeth of the zipper is goingto fall right in the middle of your seam line. so i’m going to carefully roll it down, andpin it every few inches. check, carefully roll it down and then pin it. so here is my zipper stop right here, so i’mgoing to make sure that ends up right at my next mark down here. once it’s all pinnedup, you can go ahead and baste your zipper into place, so you’re going to be stitchingright in the middle of the zipper tape. and

you can either do it on your machine or youcan do it by hand. if you do it by hand you have a little bit more control but i woulduse a contrasting thread. so something that’s going to stand out so we’ll be able to seeit on the right side of our garment. you’re also going to baste across the top of thezipper down the side remember right in the middle of that tape, when you get to the bottom,you’re going to go a little bit past the zipper stop, go across the end of the tapeand then back up down the middle until you get to the top again. last step is on outside stitch along bastingthrough all thicknesses as shown using a zipper foot, remove basting. so i turn my dress rightside out, we’re looking at the right side

of the dress now and i switch to a zipper foot,you can see my hand basted stitches right here, so the zipper tape is or the zipperis attached to the inside of my garment. all i’m going to be doing is stitching alongsidemy basting stitches, and you’re definitely going to make sure that you’re not stitchingany other part of our dress, we’re not actually stitching the front skirt to the back skirt,we’re just stitching the zipper tape to the side seam here. also make sure that your liningis staying out of the way because we don’t want to stitch the lining either. you’regoing to do a regular width stitch, do’ã­t forget to back stitch. and then after youfinish stitching, you can go ahead and remove your basting stitches, both the basting stitchesyou put alongside your zipper and also the

one that’s right in that seam line there,and that is going to open up the zipper so we can use it. step 27: turn skirt lining down, turning inopening edges to clear zipper teeth. so remainder of skirt lining to upper edge of waist seam,slip stitch to zipper tape. now we’re going to take care of our lining sections becauseremember we still have it open here where we put in the zipper. all they want you todo is on each side, you’re going to turn this raw edge over, so that when you pullit, like mine is just getting to the zipper teeth, so probably a little bit more, becauseit should be on the zipper tape and not close to the teeth because we don’t want to takea chance that it’s going to get caught in

the teeth. so that looks about right i turned it about five eighths of an inch to a half inch. you’re going to go ahead and pin this. whatyou’re going to do next and you might want to tuck the bodice back into the skirt. sowe have our seam allowance right here at the waist again, you’re going to pin the restof the lining to this seam allowance and you can go ahead and stitch it down. you don’tstitch it on to the zipper, just probably right before you hit the zipper tape. so that’sall that’s going to be attached up here, so you’re just going to do a regular withstitch at the five eighths seam allowance. you’re going to do the same exactly on thisside. once itã­s stitched you’re going to

go ahead and fold over this whole edge. whereveryou fold it up here at the top, you’re going to continue on. so if i did five eighths ofan inch, i’m going to continue doing that. and then you’re going to slip stitch fromhere down to the bottom. so you’re slip stitching a lining to the zipper tape, so we’re goingto have a nice clean finish on the inside of our dress. i’m going to do it here andthen i’m going to do it on the side as well. step 28: turn bodice lining down, turningin opening the edges to clear zipper teeth. slip stitch to zipper tape and press edgeover waist seam. so we’re essentially going to be doing the same exact thing we just didexcept we’re going to be doing it to the bodice lining, so we can finally bring thebodice lining down, and you should still have

it pressed under five eighths of an inch atthe bottom here. so here’s my zipper just like i did here, you’re going to turn overthe raw edge. so that it just meets the zipper tape does not cover the zipper teeth, youprobably want it to be even with what you did for the skirt lining here. so i’m goingto go ahead and i’m going to do both sides, you’re going to slip stitch this edge. sothe edge of the bodice lining to the zipper tape only, and i will do the same thing overhere. you’re going to make sure that your pressed edge is all pressed under and it shouldoverlap with all the seam allowance here, so it’s going to cover it up and then you’regoing to slip stitch again along this folded edge at the bodice to the top of the skirtlining. here you’re going to do that all

the way around, so it’s going to look niceand seamless right here at the waist. step 29: baste interfacing to wrong side ofbelt, sew invisibly along fold lines. now we’re going to be working with our last piece,this is the belt, so you should have cut out one out of our sewing interfacing and theone out of your fabric, you’re going to lay your interfacing piece on top of your fabricpiece and you’re going to baste them together, and i make sure that i baste inside the seamline so not at the five eighths but maybe at the half inch line, just so i don’t haveto worry about it might accidentally be showing once i flip it right side out. now if youlook at your pattern piece, you’ll notice that you have fold line, fold line and wehave a fold line here. you’re going to want

to transfer these lines to either your fabricpiece or your interfacing piece. i did it to the interfacing because it’s a littlebit easier to see, and what we’re going to be doing is we’re going to be sewing invisiblyalong these lines just to mark them and to hold the interfacing and the fabric what i’m going to do is we’re going to get a little bit closer so i can show youhow to do that. you are going to get your hand needle andsome matching thread. so thread that’s going to match your fabric. i’m just going to goahead and use a contrasting thread to my fabric because i want to make sure that you are goingto be able to see it. so what you are going to do i’m actually going to start on theinterfacing side. i’m just grabbing a little

bit of the interfacing because i want to makesure that my knot is going to be on the inside of the belt on the interfacing side and notshow on the right side. so i’m going to just grab, i’m going to go through both layersmy interfacing and my fabric but i’m just grabbing a little bit of my fabric and theni’m going to go up about a quarter of an inch and again go down and grab through bothlayers and interface and just a little bit of fabric. so the trick is you can make your stitcheson the interfacing side a little bit bigger but once you are grabbing your fabric on thebottom you are going to make sure that you grab as little as possible. so then the stitchesare not going to be that noticeable. so again

i’m grabbing the fabric and i’m going todo this all along the fold lines its including the short one that’s on the end. so if iflip this over you can just barely see my stitches this is exactly what we want. soif i was using thread that actually matched this color you would hardly notice my stitchesat all. step 30: with right sides together fold beltin half length wise stitch long end trim. your belt is right side facing up all youare going to do is fold it in half lengthwise. bring the row edges together pin the raw edgesand then you are going to stitch your five eighths seam allowance on the long edge onlynot the short sides and not the folded side. just the side after you’ve finished stitchingit you are going to go ahead and trim your

seam allowance. step 31: bring seam to center press open withpoint of iron. stitch pointed end trim. so originally when we stitched this our seamallowance was like this. this is where we stitched it and i went ahead and trimmed itall they want you to do is you are going to open up your seam allowance and you are goingto fold your belt so that the seam allowance ends up in the middle of the belt. at theother end you should end up with something like this. what they want you to do at thispoint is you are going to go ahead and you are going to stitch this pointed end righthere at your five eighths seam allowance and then you are going to trim it.

step 32: turn belt press. so here is the pointedend that we just stitched and trimmed now the trick to turning this right side out isyou are going to take the pointed end and you are just going to tuck it in. so it startsto go inside the casing then you are going to need a, either a skewer with a blunt endor a long crochet hook and then you are just going to push it and its going to come through.after you finish turning it all the way go ahead and press your belt again. step 33: slip straight end of belt throughbar of buckle turn back along fold line whip stitch in securely in place slip stitch sideedges. we are going to complete our belt by putting on our buckle so this is a one inchbuckle this is what they asked for in the

notions. you are going to have your belt sothe seam side is facing up this is the under side of the belt and you are going to flipyour buckles so you are looking at the underside of the buckle. now on the short end you shouldhave done a sew invisibly for the fold line. mine is really hard to see because my threadmatches pretty good. so what i did is i just marked it with chalk so you know exactly whereit is. i’m going to take the end the straight end here and i’m going to slip it throughmy buckle and then i’m going to come back up once i go past this bar. and i’m going just keep pulling it throughand you’ll see once i get to my fold line here i’m going to go ahead fold my buckleor my belt and instead of just having this

raw edge i’m just going to fold this underso i have a nice clean folded edge here and you can go ahead and pin that into place.for the end this end right here where you have the fold you can do a whip stitch andthen they want you to do a slip stitch on the sides. this side and this side. so that’sgoing to secure the belt into place with the buckle. so to do a whip stitch we’ve alreadydone a whip stitch but just to give you a reminder again, you are going to do this byhand with a matching thread. i’m coming up right on the fold here of my belt and i’llcut off the tail end of my note later or you can just tuck it in. and then all you aregoing to do is grab a little bit of the back of the belt you donã­t have to do too muchand then you grab the fold. grab a little

bit of the back of the belt and grab withthe fold. so i’m just going to do this all along side here and then i’ll do a slip stitchon each side. step 34: turn up hem base close to fold finishraw edge sew hem in place easing in fullness if necessary press. so it’s the last stepof making our dress all we need to do is hem you need to hem your fabric in. you also needto hem your lining. if you look at a skirt pattern piece at the bottom they actuallytell you how much. so for the fabric you are going to hem two inches and your lining youare going to do two and a half inches. so you are doing each one separately but youare going to be doing the exact thing so i’m going to show you on the fabric then you couldjust repeat for your lining. so for the fabric

the pattern says we do two inches. so i’mgoing to grab my sewing gauge and my straight pens and i’m starting here at the raw edgeat the bottom of my dress. make sure you have the wrong side facing up because you alwaysfold over to the wrong side when doing the hem.i’m going to fold up two inches and for the lining it’s going to be two and a half iã­m using my sewing gauge to get an accurate measurement here and then i can go ahead stickin a pin to hold it and i’m going to do this all the way around the whole hem. once you’vefinished pinning all the way around on the bottom folded edge so this edge down hereyou are going to do a basting stitch right alongside that fold line. so that’s goingto hold it in place so we can finish the top

part of the hem. you can go ahead and do thelargest stitch in your machine and you don’t have to worry about backstitching. after you have finished doing the bastingstitch then you’ve got to figure how you want to treat your raw edge here. so we havea couple of different options. now you are just stitching the raw edge. i’m not actuallystitching this top part to this skirt yet. just the raw edge by itself. so if you havea serger you can go ahead and serge the end. with my machine i did an overcaststitch or you can do a zigzag stitch. if you don’t want to see the raw edge, you can justturn it over about a quarter of an inch or so. that way you get a nice folded edge atthe top here.

once you’ve decided that then the only thingleft to do is to stitch the top of your hem into place. what you can do is if you canjust do on a machine stitch and just stitch directly across. since i’m working with crepe,which is more of a delicate fabric and i want it to stay light, i’m going to go ahead andhand sew the hem into place. so i’m just getting some needle on thread here. now i’mgoing to come up with my first stitch underneath my raw edge its pretty close to the top hereand you can see i’m not grabbing any of my skirt fabric just the raw edge. pull thatthrough and then i’m going to grab a little bit of my skirt fabric its kind of similarto sewing invisibly since the part that you grab with the skirt is the one that is goingto be showing on the right side. you just

want to make your stitches really small. sothey don’t show that much and then again we are going to grab a little bit of the rawedge coming from behind raw edge to in front staying pretty close to the edge. you don’twant to be to close to the edge that the thread tears through the raw edge. maybe about aneighth of an inch or less 1/16ths. then grab a little bit of the skirt above that and thenback to the raw edge. after you finish stitching all your hem into place and don’t forgetyou still need to do the lining if you haven’t done that. go ahead and press your hems sothey look nice and neat and you can remove all you’re basting stitches. after removing your basting and the fabric marksyou will end up with a vintage inspired dress.

this has been butterick 5880. enjoy wearingthis dress. you’re sure to capture the glamour of yesteryear. make sure to check out ourother videos and visit professor to view our complete library well over150 sewing tutorials. new tutorials are released regularly so make sure to subscribe to benotified of the next release. thanks for watching.

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